Luang Prabang, Laos

HERE is, without a doubt, the cheapest eat for backpackers in Luang Prabang, Laos.

So cheap, in fact, that it seemed most patrons were repeat visitors (yep - us stingers included), and it was often difficult to find yourself a pozzy on the long communal table.

What I liked most about this little stall, which sets up in an alley adjacent to the nightly handicraft market, was that it was so casual.

Between swotting away flies with his fluffy duster (yes, that's the unidentifiable "fairy floss" in the photo below), the very friendly man slaps a bowl in your hand and you get to work filling it with as much or as little food as you like.

All for 5000kip, which equals about AUD60cents.

It’s not crazy great food, but it’s good backpacker fare and it’s fresh. Lots of colourful stirfried vegetables, steamed pumpkin, spring rolls, noodle mixes and the like.
They’ll even throw it in the wok and heat it up for you.

Or, for an extra 5000 to 10,000 kip, you can get skewers of skinless barbecued chicken and fish.
For free is the posse of dogs and cats whining and running beneath your legs until the man grabs them by the collar and drags them away.
Every night without fail.
(Come on, it wouldn’t be a meal in Asia without a few animals lounging nearby!)

H'mong markets, Bac Ha

THE most glorious thing about travelling Vietnam, I think, is that there’s such immense diversity of scenery.

In the south there’s the surging rhythm of life on the Mekong, the frenetic buzz of Saigon and its constant swarm of motorbikes; the quiet lull of Dalat in the highlands and its crisp temperatures; the coastal beach town of Nha Trang; the Chinese old town of Hoi An in the centre, with laneways decorated with glowing lanterns and tailors on every street corner; and of course the capital Hanoi in the north, with its old quarter and French feel.

But the north-western highlands present one of the biggest scenic twists and a spectacular window into the hilltribe minority groups, some of which – we also noticed – share distinct similarities with those in the Yunnan province in southern China.Here in Bac Ha, about nine hours by train and bus from Hanoi, the Flower H'mong minority people – so called because of the flower motif stitched onto their clothes – flock to the weekend markets dressed in a marvellous array of handmade technicolour skirts and blouses layered with chest pieces, aprons and material belts over which they drape embroidered bags and coin purses.

Their faces are oval with blushed high cheek bones, large foreheads pulled tight by bright tartan head scarves and framed with enormous silver hoop earrings pressed with intricate designs.

A 40 minute motorbike ride out to the Saturday markets at Can Cau (pictures below) flies you past awesome scenery: corn fields cultivated on the side of steep hills giving way to lush rice paddies; elderly women with babies wrapped on their backs returning from market or working the land.

A Sunday morning spent wandering the markets at Bac Ha - albeit filled with tourists around lunchtime - gets you up close with the local people and is also an opportunity to buy some of the brightest and most authentic souvenirs around.

We're only a couple days into our highlands visit (edit: I'm posting this a bit late; we're almost into Laos), and already it's some of the lushest landscape we've seen with some of the most distinct people.

Enjoy our piccies.

Bun Cha

THIS is the meal that’s temporarily turned me vegetarian.

That and a book called Fast Food Nation which has given me a horrific insight into what’s in the meat we eat as well as lots of interesting information on the state of feedlots, slaughterhouses and other goings on in the fast food industry.

I had just finished the book that morning and for some reason, which I immediately regretted, I suggested we try Bun Cha for lunch at a street eatery in Hanoi that is always teeming with locals.

Just as soon as we’d negotiated the price and sat down, out came two enormous plates piled high with cold sticky vermicelli noodles - so big we sent one back - a forest of greens, fat crispy spring rolls and - drumroll - two soup bowls overflowing with barbecued meat.

Overflowing. With lukewarm almost cold meat. The perfect temperature for bacteria growth. A veritable stew of miscellaneous meaty bits. Grisly mincemeat balls with scary knuckly nubs and stretchy fatty pork strips.

Captured: my moment of distress

Everyone around me was digging in. They were slurping with joy from their soup bowls, throwing me side looks to check on my progress.

I tried very hard. Honest, I did.

It didn't work.

Bun Cha: one for the carnivores, not for one who has just finished reading Fast Food Nation.

Paris in Hanoi

THERE’S something deliciously naughty that sets Hanoi above every other Asian city in the sweet tooth stakes.

It’s called a croissant, an almond croissant dusted with icing sugar; a pastry, a danish pastry; a tart, a tart chocked with fruit and cinnamon topped with a crunchy crumble; a simple lip-pursing lemon tart; a dense chocolate truffle cake embroidered with a delicate chocolate ruffle.

I rejoice the French influence when it comes to Hanoi’s patisseries, of which I recommend two worthy of repeated visits.
For budget travellers I suggest Baguette and Chocolat, a wee little not-for-profit café with a glass cabinet usually fairly depleted by the end of the day, so get there early.

Mini tarts – but still a decent size – start at about 5,000 Vietnam Dong (VND), so that’s about AUD40cents. Double the price and you’ve got some serious spoon-licking on your hands.
Choose from brioche, coconut macaroons, a seriously rich chocolate and orange mousse cake, the usual pastry line up and a slew of tarts.

For something a bit more civilised – and expensive – head to Paris Deli near the spectacular cathedral near the bottom end of the lake (can't remember name) not far from the Old Quarter.

We opted for breakfast and chose a slightly disappointing croissant – too bready and heavy, not flaky enough – a far superior almond croissant and a moist Danish dotted with plump sultanas.

The tart line-up starts at around 21,000VND (AUD$2) and looks divine: pear, apple crumble, something fruity covered in golden lattice pastry, and caramel and walnut to name a few.

If I was an expat in Hanoi this would definitely be my Saturday morning spoil, followed by a browse of the nearby art galleries and clothes boutiques.

It truly does feel like a little piece of Paris in Hanoi.